Celebrations
June 21, 1973

Château Mouton Rothschild elevated from Second Growth to First Growth class in the 1855 Classification of Medoc wines, the only significant change in the 154-year-old classification.

June 22, 1999

Robert Parker, America’s powerful and controversial wine writer/expert, is named a Chevalier dans l’Ordre de la Légion d’Honneur. Only wine critic ever to receive the award.

    Swigs
Chateau China

Hong Kong
Wine and prosperity flow along on the same current of joy. A recent Wall Street Journal story by Laura Santini reports that Hong Kong has become an international wine hub, thanks to the growing appreciation of wine and luxury accompanying the new Chinese economy. (Hong Kong is now Sotheby’s leading wine-auction market.) The city has seen an especially large uptick in business because of the elimination of a 40 percent tax on wine imports (it’s 43 percent on the mainland). The preferred bottle to cement and celebrate a business deal? The 1982 Chateau Lafite Rothschild, which sells for roughtly $5,000 in Hong Kong. Although local wine experts suspect a lot of it is counterfeit. 12/5/09.

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Home » Arts » Barbara Pym: Understated Spirits
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Last updated: Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Barbara Pym: Understated Spirits
Pym and Sherry
There is no shortage of reasons for reading British novelist Barbara Pym’s 1958 classic A Glass of Blessings. It’s hard to resist the perfect ear for absurd high comedy displayed as one character (a retired anthropologist) inquires after another (a gay barista and sometime knitting-catalog model): “Who was that beautiful young man who didn’t believe in God?” But for a wine lover, Blessings is especially delightful. I don’t mean that it’s about wine, in any real sense, but in its swift, charming way it invokes with unerring perfection how wine—often sherry, in this case—is a small, heavensent gift that adds a quiet sparkle to key psychological moments in daily life.

The title itself, taken from a George Herbert poem, strikes the precisely correct balance between the spiritual and, well, spirits: “When God at first made man/ Having a glass of blessings standing by/ Let us (said he) poure on him all we can.”

Pym’s comic novels are parochial affairs involving, mostly, tensions in Anglican vicarages and the lives and longings of highly literate, rather lonely people who occupy their time with careers as index-compilers, translators, proofreaders at scholarly journals and the like. Blessings is a little different in that its narrator, 30-year-old Wilmet, is comfortably married, with subtle but not inexpensive taste (“I always like myself in deep clear colours”). She has a great deal of leisure time in which to flirt and be flirted with, although she approaches men with an innocence not far removed from Jane Austen. Nothing outwardly momentous occurs in the book, although she clears up some misconceptions about her marriage, friendship and romantic fantasies—and this is momentous enough.

The road to this new maturity is dotted with constant breaks for lunches and dinners, usually with company that is highly amusing and quite happy to share a cocktail, a glass of wine or sherry. She will have a Tio Pepe while waiting alone for a late lunch companion. On another occasion she will have a glass of Chablis with a chicken fricasee at home. She invokes a spumante, its bubble gone flat, when remembering her younger days in Italy.

Pym, a quiet master of the comic novel, uses such details very carefully: These references to wines and drinks are slipped in nearly always in a scene in which Wilmet is feeling gay, nostalgic, romantic, triste or all of the above—scenes in which she is being most essentially her daydreaming self. Just as she dresses, so she drinks: Alcohol seems to be a matter of “deep clear colours” that add a certain lilt to her mood. If, in an early chapter, Wilmet elects to have a martini at the start of a dinner party, it’s because “it doesn’t seem quite the weather for sherry—too mild or something.”

The conversation turns to which sort of wine would best complement a dessert of gooseberries. “If you like,” says a guest, “I will raise the matter with my own wine merchant—a man of considerable courage, even panache.”

Much later, Wilmet has lunch with her old friend, Rowena, and with both affection and envy the two of them observe young lovers meeting at a nearby table:

“They’re going to drink a whole bottle of claret,” said Rowena in a low rather sad voice. “What will they do afterwards? Walk in the park? … They might go to an art exhibition… Really modern art is extraordinarily sympathetic when you’re in love and have eaten and drunk well.”

There’s no need to go overboard with any of this, except that Pym captures so well, and so glancingly, how subtly wines and spirits feed a sense of glamour, anticipation and sensuality. (Pym’s characters tend toward a frumpy, tentative mousiness, which might make the transfigurative aid of wine even more significant.) You can also argue that she includes a cautionary note of the abuse of alcohol: Wilmet is mildly (and misguidedly) infatuated with an old friend, Piers, who clearly drinks too much. But that doesn’t make him any less funny or charming—it just hints at a personal conflict within him that Wilmet is slow to understand.

I suppose this is really a very roundabout way to encourage people to read this wonderful writer. And if you have a glass of sherry with it, you won’t be any the worse.

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