Bermejos
Malvasía Seco
2007
13.5% alc.
Lanzarote, Spain
If you want a memorable prose description of the ashy volcanic soils of Lanzarote, read Michel Houellebecq’s bleakly perverse 2003 novella of that name. Or just open a bottle of Bodega Los Bermejos 2007 Malvasía Seco from Lanzarote, Spain. This dry, full-bodied wine has a pale gold color with hints of green and pronounced aromas of vanilla, hay and pear. On the palate, you’ll encounter immediately high viscosity giving way to a a broad, plump burst of lemon custard and citrus flavors with a strong hint of brininess, then a tropical finish that is long and sustained. The palate is well-balanced and the flavors unfold in a neat, direct fashion. Lanzarote is the most easterly of the Canary Islands. A volcanic eruption occurred in the 1730s that lasted about six years: the grounds of Timanfaya National Park are nothing but solidified lava with unusual rock formations. Vines won’t grow on the volcanic ash, but are planted in the soil on steep mountain slopes beneath it—a very unusual type of planting, found in similar style in Colares, Portugal. The wine produced in Lanzarote is mostly white. The principal grape is malvasía. Dry malvasía from Lanzarote is typically fragrant and viscous, and good examples are pleasing to drink. Note: The bottle from this producer is unusual as well. It’s shaped something like a bowling pin, with the label up around its neck—like a small collar—and an indented lip for pouring. Vinos and Gourmet Inc. (José Pastor Selection.) $23.00. 4/13/09.
