Dom. de Baumard
Clos du Papillon
2001
13% alc.
Savennières, Fr.
The chenin blancs of Savennières are popular wines . . . in northern France. Not so much the U.S. But Savennières doesn’t seek to be loved. It demands to be considered. Perhaps it’s too French for America. Like Jerry Lewis. The vines do not throw themselves out indiscriminately. The yields are extremely low, thus production is small. While the wines can be attractive and accessible when young, their nervosité and concentration make their maturity all the more interesting and challenging. In good vintages, Savennières can develop for at least two decades. It is a small appellation, located south of Angers, just north of the Loire River. The soil is composed of mostly slate and sandstone, with a lot of quartz. In the past, the AC produced mostly sweet wines, the style most associated with and prized by the best of Loire Valley chenin blancs. Today, Savennières is almost totally dry chenin blanc. The Clos du Papillon is a lieu-dit shared by the Baumards. The Baumards produce a range of styles typical of the Anjou region in which Savennieres lay. And they are good. Better yet, they are afffordable. The 2001 Clos du Papillon comes with a pale gold core with a medium intense aroma—a rather unusual one—of wet wool, grass, perfume, hay, lilac and tropical fruit. This full-bodied wine’s palate is dry with pronounced, layered and concentrated flavors of lychee, peach, citrus, grass and vanilla, long length and pineapple on the finish. The mouthfeel is satiny rich. The high acidity will allow the wine to develop for a few more years. This is a $20.00 wine that tastes twice its price. So for those who like to keep their wines, this is a good value addition to the cellar. Importer: Ex Cellar Wine Agencies. $21.99. 5/24/09.
