Clos Saron
2005
13.8% alc
Sierra Foothills, California
I’ll tell you the moral at the outset: Read labels closely! This wine came highly recommended by a merchant whom I like and whose tastes I respect. But I couldn’t believe he waxed so enthusiastic about the “pure mountain fruit” he tasted in a pinot noir from—of all places—Texas Hill Country. Once I left the store and took a closer look at the bottle—ah! Silly me: Only then did I realize he’d been saying “Texas Hill Road,” the name of the vineyard, which in fact is where Clos Saron is located in California. This may be why he looked puzzled when I kept talking about the Lone Star State. Well, it’s a perfectly good California pinot noir, quite tasty, although I didn’t get the mountain fruit. Whether it’s what you want in a pinot noir is another question. As with many American wines, the emphasis with Clos Saron is on delivering flavor—a rich, symphonic burst on the palate, following a rich, initial nose of barnyard, graphite, red fruit, bacon and moss. I tasted lots of red and dark fruits in the wine. But that’s all you get really, those strong, firmly delivered notes of fruit and spice. That, I suppose, and the pretty tendril of Franco-feeling in the “Clos” of the name: There wasn’t much nuance, no minerality, no structure that teased out its layers on the tongue. Just the same wowie-kazowie of flavor with every sip. It’s as if Beethoven’s Fifth never moved beyond the powerful opening bars. And it wasn’t cheap either at $46. And to experience its pleasures for that price can be dicey: there is no sulphur used at any stage of vinification. But for those who love strong West Coast-style upfront flavors—and Lord knows they are not a small, retiring population—this could be your pinot. 7/7/09.
July 8, 2009
A response from Gideon Beinstock:
Billy,
Thank you for reviewing our wine.
While I agree with most of what you had to say about it, I have other biases than you and therefore a few other perceptions. I do find it big, somewhat rustic and rough, lacking in nuance at this stage. But I also find it structured, minerally and strongly spicy – aspects which clearly express the soil.
This was the first wine we made from that site. Contrary to our common practice, we did not even farm it and had no clue as to its potential. From 2006 and on, we started farming it and converting it to an organic/biodynamic vineyard. The ’06 shows a big step in the right direction, with more nuance, elegance and minerality.
One reason for my strong conviction about the terroir expression in this wine is the fact that we farm and make another [Pinot], from our “Home Vineyard”: less than two miles away from the THR, on a different soil, the two are dramatically different although made side by side in an identical way. The “Home” is always more minerally, layered and light; the THR more structured, poweful, intense, dark. The soil here is decomposed granite and iron-rich red clay, while in the Home Vineyard it is clay/loam on volcanic ash. Taste them side by side and you’d be amazed at the clarity of their terroir expression. Taste either side by side with middle-of-the-road Cali Pinots and you will notice the absence of any overripe taste, syrupy thickness, residual sugar, alcoholic heat in the finish, oaky makeup, vanilla ice cream flavors, etc. You would see the soil more clearly. And yet, Burgundy they are not and will never be.
We produce a few other wines, all of which are distinctive and terroir-driven: syrah, a white blend, and a few red blends. The are all richer than most European wines, but by comparison to most Cali wines, fruit-driven they are certainly not. At our scale we truly can specialize in the character expression of single vineyard sites, using extremely natural wine-making practices.
Hope you find this of interest.
Cheers!