Clemens Busch
Vom Roten Schiefer
Riesling
2006
12.5% alc.
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
Collecting wine doesn’t necessarily have to be a hobby for the rich only. It’s just that those on a budget must struggle harder to find well-priced wine to make an interesting cellar—or fridge or even Ikea shelf unit. Rieslings are a good source for these wines: they are versatile and age-worthy, especially those from the Mosel. Not too long ago, I noted a fine undervalued riesling from the Lower Mosel. Then there also are the rieslings of Clemens Busch and his family, also from the banks of the Lower Mosel. I recently sampled one of them: the 2006 Vom Roten Schiefer, meaning “from red slate.” Busch has been farming organically since 1984 and today his wines are viticulturally biodynamic. All of them come from the exceptional Punderricher Marienburg vineyard. The soil of this vineyard is slate—mostly blue, gray and red—but this particular wine comes from the Rothenpfad subsection, consisting almost entirely of red. Typically, Busch’s wines ferment a long time on lees in stainless steel tanks or fuders—1,000-liter oval casks—resulting in bottles that are dry/off-dry and exceptionally flavorful. This 2006 sample was attractively off-dry with crisp acidity well-balanced against some residual sweetness and well-integrated medium alcohol. On the nose were aromas of kerosene, cold-cream, grass, pineapple, musk and grapefruit. The palate was broad with well-sustained, concentrated, supple flavors of pear, peaches, nectarine, tropical fruit, lemon and herbs. The length went on and on in a pleasurable way, like a Victorian novel that doesn’t want to end. And when it does finally conclude, you can’t help but anticipate the next. Importer: Polaner Selections. $24.00. 9/8/09.
